The Discipline of Leather Selection: Choosing Material That Will Outlive Us
- William Lythgoe

- 3 days ago
- 1 min read
Updated: 2 days ago
Leather selection is not an aesthetic decision. It is a structural one.
Every hide that enters the workshop is evaluated for:
fibre density
tensile strength
natural variation
grain behaviour
how it will respond to tension
how it will age under pressure
how it will accept colour and finish
This is not something that can be automated. It cannot be delegated to a supplier’s description. It must be done by hand, by eye, and by experience.
A Chesterfield is a tensioned object. The leather must withstand:
deep buttoning
compression
stretching
decades of movement
This is why we reject hides that other workshops would accept. Not because they are “bad,” but because they are not right for the work we do.
Leather is not chosen for today. It is chosen for the next generation.





